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A220TW Alloy Tubular Set

A220TW Alloy Tubular Set
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 In the old days, when 700 C wheels were scarce (27" dominated road bikes and mountain bikes weren't even invented), all performance wheels were tubulars.  The Michelin Elan was the first really small racing type tire introduced in the early 70's.  All racers rode tubulars exclusively.  Dealing with the glue and expense was part of it and no one really gave it a second thought.  Clinchers now have evolved to the point where they can be competitive with tubular tires (especially now with the wider rim versions) but if you want the best performance you need to go tubular.  Both the tires and rims are lighter.
Most of our tubulars are sold during cross season where the vast majority of cross racers use them.
Ours have our 22 mm wide rim (wider holds more glue and is much better for cross) and, of course, are internal washers on the drive side rear spokes.  They are also seriously light at 1320 grams for the set.  I often ride tubulars and put tire sealant in them.  I find that the sealant will take care of almost all flats and that the only time I need to take a tire off is when it's worn out.  Another great alternative is to carry the sealant with you and if you get a flat instead of changing the tire you add sealant an pump it up.
Size: 700C Tubular (glued on tires - if you don't know what these are they most likely are not for you).
Weight 1320 grams (without skewers or rim strips)  weights can vary by about 50 grams a set due to rim, spoke, and hub weight tollerances.
Rim (for more information on rims and wheel building go to the rim page)
Rim Material 6066 Alloy - machined braking surfaces.  Welded seam.
Drilling: 20 hole front and 24 hole rear
Rim Weight 385 grams
Rim Dimensions 23mm high 22 mm wide
Rim ERD 594 mm
Spokes if Sapim CX Ray 4.1 grams each bladed aero.  Blade is 2.3 mm x 1 mm
Spokes if Sapim Laser 4.1 grams each Double butted 2.0-1.5-2.0
Spoke Length Front:  280-281
Spoke Length Drive Side Rear: 280-281
Spoke Length Non Drive Side Rear: 272
Spoke Tension Front: 110-120 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 13-14 for CX Ray and 18-19 for Laser
Spoke Tension Rear Drive Side: 170-180 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 18-19 for CX Ray and 22-23 for Laser).
Spoke Tension Rear Non Drive Side:  There is no spec for this because it is whatever it is to pull the rim to the center of the wheel.  They will always be looser than the drive side spokes and often by quite bit.
Note:  Wheels come with extra spokes and the exact length is indicated on the spoke package.  We occasionally substiture when we are out of a particular length.
Spoke Prep
We use Loctite 242 on the non drive side spokes and on the front spokes during the building process (no lubricant).  On the drive side rear spokes we use a lubricant to build (nothing special - just something slippery) and after the build put some Loctite 242 in to finish them off.   The Loctite 242 will make the spokes harder to turn but will not sieze them.
Spoke Nipples
Front Nipples  Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Rear Drive Side Nipples Brass 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench*
Rear Non Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Note:  We use brass nipples on the drive side rear because we have found that occasionally alloy nipples will crack.  It adds about 11 grams to the wheel weight but we feel it is well worth it.  Also, we build to extremely high tension and brass nipples are better able to handle the higher tensions.
Used internally on the drive side rear spokes.  I have them custom made by Boker's in the US.  They provide an extra layer or durability while adding almost no weight.  Weigh less than 1 gram each.

Hub (for more information on hubs and servicing go to the hub page)
Front over lock nut dimension 100 mm
Front flange diameter:  32 mm
Front center to flange: 32 mm
Rear Over Lock Nut dimension 130 mm (standard road)
Rear Drive Side Flange Diameter:  58 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  14 mm
Rear Non Drive Side Flange Diameter:  45 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  38.5 mm
Campy Cassette body - 9,10, or 11 speed compatible
Shimano/Sram Cassette Body - 8,9,10,11 speed compatible
Cassette Body Bearings:  6902 (Two) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Front Hub Weight 80 grams
Front Hub Bearings:  6900 Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Rear Hub Weight 245 grams
Rear Hub Bearings:   6802 (both drive and non drive side) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Note:  On Shimano-Sram cassette bodies (they are one in the same) you will need a spacer if using it with a 9 speed cassette (which is included in the spoke package), for a 10 speed cassette (which is narrower than a 9 speed) you will need the included spacer and the one that came with your cassette.  If your cassette doesn't have one you can get them at any bike shop.  They are 1 mm wide.
Skewers weight 46 grams front 50 grams rear.

Tire Recommendations

With the wider rims, you can use pretty much any tire width you want - from 19 mm all the way up to over 30 mm.  I like 25 mm wide tires simply because they hold more air and are more comfortable.  23 mm tires are probably the fastest and are the most aerodynamic.  As you get bigger tires, the limiting factor is the frame.  Typically the tires will first rub on either the brakes (on the top of the tire) or with the rear tire hitting the seat tube.  Most road bikes will fit up to 25 mm tires, a few bigger ones, and many won't even fit a 25 mm tire.

Tire Pressure Recommendations

With the wider rims you can generally run at least 10% less pressure than with a narrower rim because the system holds more air.  Less pressure is better because you have a bigger tire patch and will roll over the bumps in the road instead of bounce over them (it's that sidewall flex that gives you better rolling resistance).  Most people run too much pressure in their tires because they believe they are faster (and they feel faster at first).  If the roads were perfectly flat that would be the case but they all have lots of bumps so lower pressures make sense.  Generally speaking a 160 pound rider should be around 80-90 psi in the back tire and 75-85 in the front. If you have been running higher pressure you will immediately notice how much more comfortable the ride is and how much better the bike handles around corners.
When you receive your wheels it will include a package with the extra spokes, skewers, a spacer (if a Shimano-Sram cassette is ordered) and some documents.  The documents will list the builder and on alloy wheels a serial number (which is under the rim strip near the valve hole on both wheels).  Also included is a spec sheet showing the type and length of spokes used and the spokes tensions for your wheels).  There is also some maintenance info and whatever else I want to throw in there along with a copy of your invoice.  We keep a record of your info here so you can contact us with either your invoice number (preferred), serial number (also OK), or your name and we can pull up your records.






A220TW Alloy Tubular Set
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A220TW Alloy Tubular Set
The ant-carbon
My 50mm race tubulars cracked after 4 years of duty. They didn't owe my anything. This time around I went with aluminum tubs...because where I live there is wind, rain and potholes & 50mm carbon wheels don't care for any of those things. The Neugent wheels were a great value. 1300 gram wheels that are 22mm wide with a GREAT aluminum brake track. I am very happy with these wheels. They are plenty stiff for those big efforts and the hub bearings are surprisingly smooth. Disassembling the hubs is a simple matter making maintenance an any man job. Add some sealant and you could train on them as well (I've been). Deep rims have their place...but I feel just as fast on these wheels as I did on the 50mm carbon's...They are lighter and they have an aluminum brake track so they accelerate and stop a little quicker. I would buy them again...the crash warranty I purchased ensures not having to for at least 2 years.