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A310AS Alloy 31X24 Asym Rear Set

A310AS Alloy 31X24 Asym Rear Set
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The fastest alloy wheels I have ever sold.  The deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic it is and these are 31 mm deep - very deep for an alloy rim.  They are also 24 mm wide making them more comfortable and even more aerodynamic.  They are strong enough for daily use, fast enough for competitive racing, and light enough for hill climbing.  The silky smooth hubs are comparable in weight to the DT 240's (245 for the rear and 80 for the front). Your choice of Sapim CX Ray or Sapim Laser spokes.  They are completely handbuilt in California using internal washers on the rear drive side spokes - where the vast majority of rim failures occur - making them as strong as 28 or 32 spoke wheels.  The quality of the components is equal to wheels costing twice or three times as much.  You wont' find a set of alloy wheels that perform any better than these.  The rear rim is asymmetrical to balance spoke tensions on the drive and non drive sides.
 
 
Specifications
 
Size: 700C Clincher (normal road bike)
Weight 1460 grams (without skewers or rim strips)  weights can vary by about 50 grams a set due to rim, spoke, and hub weight tollerances.
 
Rim (for more information on rims and wheel building go to the rim page)
Rim Material Niobium Alloy - machined braking surfaces.  Sleeved seam.
Drilling: 20 hole front and 24 hole rear
Rim Weight 460 grams
Rim Dimensions 31 mm high 24 mm wide
Rim ERD 585 mm
 
Spokes
Spokes if Sapim CX Ray 4.1 grams each bladed aero.  Blade is 2.3 mm x 1 mm
Spokes if Sapim Laser 4.1 grams each Double butted 2.0-1.5-2.0
Spoke Length Front:  271
Spoke Length Drive Side Rear: 273
Spoke Length Non Drive Side Rear: 264
Spoke Tension Front: 110-120 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 13-14 for CX Ray and 18-19 for Laser
Spoke Tension Rear Drive Side: 170-180 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 18-19 for CX Ray and 22-23 for Laser).
Spoke Tension Rear Non Drive Side:  There is no spec for this because it is whatever it is to pull the rim to the center of the wheel.  They will always be looser than the drive side spokes and often by quite bit.
Note:  Wheels come with extra spokes and the exact length is indicated on the spoke package.  We occasionally substiture when we are out of a particular length.
 
Spoke Prep
We use Loctite 242 on the non drive side spokes and on the front spokes during the building process (no lubricant).  On the drive side rear spokes we use a lubricant to build (nothing special - just something slippery) and after the build put some Loctite 242 in to finish them off.   The Loctite 242 will make the spokes harder to turn but will not sieze them.
 
Spoke Nipples
Front Nipples  Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Rear Drive Side Nipples Brass 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench*
Rear Non Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Note:  We use brass nipples on the drive side rear because we have found that occasionally alloy nipples will crack.  It adds about 11 grams to the wheel weight but we feel it is well worth it.  Also, we build to extremely high tension and brass nipples are better able to handle the higher tensions.
 
Used internally on the drive side rear spokes.  I have them custom made by Boker's in the US.  They provide an extra layer or durability while adding almost no weight.  Weigh less than 1 gram each.

Hub (for more information on hubs and servicing go to the hub page)
Front over lock nut dimension 100 mm
Front flange diameter:  32 mm
Front center to flange: 32 mm
Rear Over Lock Nut dimension 130 mm (standard road)
Rear Drive Side Flange Diameter:  58 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  14 mm
Rear Non Drive Side Flange Diameter:  45 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  38.5 mm
Campy Cassette body - 9,10, or 11 speed compatible
Shimano/Sram Cassette Body - 8,9,10,11 speed compatible
Cassette Body Bearings:  6902 (Two) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Front Hub Weight 80 grams
Front Hub Bearings:  6900 Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Rear Hub Weight 245 grams
Rear Hub Bearings:   6802 (both drive and non drive side) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Note:  On Shimano-Sram cassette bodies (they are one in the same) you will need a spacer if using it with a 9 speed cassette (which is included in the spoke package), for a 10 speed cassette (which is narrower than a 9 speed) you will need the included spacer and the one that came with your cassette.  If your cassette doesn't have one you can get them at any bike shop.  They are 1 mm wide.
 
Skewers
Skewers weight 46 grams front 50 grams rear.
 
Rim Strips
Black nylon.  If you are going tubeless you need to buy the Stan's rims strips.  These will not work for tubeless applications.
  
Tire Recommendations
With the wider rims, you can use pretty much any tire width you want - from 19 mm all the way up to over 30 mm.  I like 25 mm wide tires simply because they hold more air and are more comfortable.  23 mm tires are probably the fastest and are the most aerodynamic.  As you get bigger tires, the limiting factor is the frame.  Typically the tires will first rub on either the brakes (on the top of the tire) or with the rear tire hitting the seat tube.  Most road bikes will fit up to 25 mm tires, a few bigger ones, and many won't even fit a 25 mm tire.
 
Tubes
The rim is 25 mm deep but the tubes rests in the rim cavity.  I suggest using tubes that have valuve stems at least 48 mm long or thereabouts.  You will need a presta valved tube (which is by far the most common or road bikes today).
 
Tire Pressure Recommendations
With the wider rims you can generally run at least 10% less pressure than with a narrower rim because the system holds more air.  Less pressure is better because you have a bigger tire patch and will roll over the bumps in the road instead of bounce over them (it's that sidewall flex that gives you better rolling resistance).  Most people run too much pressure in their tires because they believe they are faster (and they feel faster at first).  If the roads were perfectly flat that would be the case but they all have lots of bumps so lower pressures make sense.  Generally speaking a 160 pound rider should be around 80-90 psi in the back tire and 75-85 in the front. If you have been running higher pressure you will immediately notice how much more comfortable the ride is and how much better the bike handles around corners.
 
Documentation
When you receive your wheels it will include a package with the extra spokes, skewers, a spacer (if a Shimano-Sram cassette is ordered) and some documents.  The documents will list the builder and on alloy wheels a serial number (which is under the rim strip near the valve hole on both wheels).  Also included is a spec sheet showing the type and length of spokes used and the spokes tensions for your wheels).  There is also some maintenance info and whatever else I want to throw in there along with a copy of your invoice.  We keep a record of your info here so you can contact us with either your invoice number (preferred), serial number (also OK), or your name and we can pull up your records.
 

Tubeless

These wheels can be set up to go tubelss with the Stan's system and with the use of a tubeless specific tire.  The tubeless specific tire is vital because they use a kevlar (aramid) bead that will not stretch. Using a regular tire risks a blowout - which on the front can be extremely dangerous.

 

 

 


 

 
 

$549.00

Reviews

A310AS Alloy 31X24 Asym Rear Set
Average rating:
  
9 reviews

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Featured positive reviews:

A310AS Alloy 31X24 Asym Rear Set
High expectations more than met
By 
Let me start by saying, I like these wheels a lot – I REALLY like them. And that’s with nearly a year’s riding, perfectly true with hubs/bearings, as smooth as when new.

To be honest, I am in the bike industry and have known John Neugent for years. But to be just as honest, I am an avid cyclist, so will only work with cycling products I love and people who are ethical and honorable. So you can decide if my review is worth your consideration.

The build of these is flawless, not only true, but also dished perfectly and with attention to individual spoke tension’s. In all, keys to a comfortable and long lasting wheel (The spoke washers should only add to wheel life). I assume these qualities are across all Neugent models. Seeing many wheels from various companies, only reinforces the quality I note above. Many sell wheels that are true – the noticeable thing a cyclist will see – but inferior in dish and/or spoke tension, since very few will notice this. I check all wheels using a Park dishing tool and spoke tension meter.

As a means of comparison, with similar types/spec’d wheels:

One company claims, “Hand built right here in sunny Florida with the finest parts in the industry…,” going on to praise their proprietary bearings (with the owner’s last name on their website). But the actual wheels – 3 sets in the first delivery – all had spoke tensions with such great variances as to make them not only poor in performance and life-span, but potentially dangerous to ride (and significantly out of spoke manufacturer’s spec’d range), yet called “hand built.” The bearings I got were not only NOT proprietary they were not even marked with any bearing rating used in the bearing industry, such as the ABEC ratings. So possibly, the lowest end bearings typically on ebay from overseas at very low prices (for example, 10 bearings for $2.45, with many similar offerings). Add insult to injury, these are $50 more than the Neugent A310AS at full price.

Another company with similar wheel configuration and price described as “exceptional…lightweight…durable…” were delivered significantly over the spec’d weight, with a typical machine build from overseas and low quality control – mass market. When an inquiry was made, the owners were on vacation for several weeks and finally admitted they did not even open the boxes from the overseas factory, so did not know what they were actually selling.

Short version is, be carful of terms like “hand built.” It can mean everything, as with the Neugent wheels, or nothing.

As for experience and riding, I’d agree with John’s site: “The quality of the components is equal to wheels costing twice or three times as much. You wont' find a set of alloy wheels that perform any better than these.” This is consistent with John’s philosophy and what I’ve found over many models over years of use. I’d add the same for handling and feel – comfortable, lively and cornering to inspire confidence.

Overall, I’d like 6 stars for these!

Putting my money where my words are, I’ve ordered more.