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C50CC25 Carbon Clincher Set

C50CC25 Carbon Clincher Set
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The deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic they are and the faster you go - when riding at any speed.  The faster you go the more speed you gain because aerodynamics play a larger part of your speed.  Where I live in San Luis Obispo CA, there is almost always wind and if you are riding into a head wind you need to figure that wind speed into your speed calculation.  The downside of carbon wheels is they weigh more than a smaller profile (carbon wheel) and they are more affected by side winds.  But the side wind issue has been somewhat mitigated by the bullet type profile of these. You also need carbon specific brake pads and they typically don't last as long as regular brake pads.  So that you live with.


Size: 700C Clincher (normal road bike)
Weight 1510 grams (without skewers or rim strips)  weights can vary by about 50 grams a set due to rim, spoke, and hub weight tollerances.
Rim (for more information on rims and wheel building go to the carbon rim page)
Rim Material Carbon UD (unidiredtional finish).  Braking surface is pure basalt ceramic that not only dissipates heat but also tolerates it well
Drilling: 20 hole front and 24 hole rear
Rim Weight 480 grams
Rim Dimensions 50 mm high 25 mm wide
Rim ERD 541 mm
Spokes if Sapim CX Ray 4.1 grams each bladed aero.  Blade is 2.3 mm x 1 mm
Spokes if Sapim Laser 4.1 grams each Double butted 2.0-1.5-2.0
Spoke Length Front: 255 (radial)
Spoke Length Drive Side Rear: 255 (2X)
Spoke Length Non Drive Side Rear: 250 (Radial)
Spoke Tension Front: 110-120 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 13-14 for CX Ray and 18-19 for Laser
Spoke Tension Rear Drive Side: 120-130 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 14-15 for CX Ray and 19-20 for Laser).
Spoke Tension Rear Non Drive Side:  There is no spec for this because it is whatever it is to pull the rim to the center of the wheel.  They will always be looser than the drive side spokes and often by quite bit.
Note:  Wheels come with extra spokes and the exact length is indicated on the spoke package.  We occasionally substiture when we are out of a particular length.
Spoke Prep
We use Loctite 242 on the non drive side spokes and on the front spokes during the building process (no lubricant).  On the drive side rear spokes we use a lubricant to build (nothing special - just something slippery) and after the build put some Loctite 242 in to finish them off.   The Loctite 242 will make the spokes harder to turn but will not sieze them.
Spoke Nipples
Front Nipples  Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Rear Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench
Rear Non Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench

Used internally on the drive side rear spokes.  I have them custom made by Boker's in the US.  They provide an extra layer or durability while adding almost no weight.  Weigh less than 1 gram each.


Hub (for more information on hubs and servicing go to the hub page)
Front over lock nut dimension 100 mm
Front flange diameter:  32 mm
Front center to flange: 32 mm
Rear Over Lock Nut dimension 130 mm (standard road)
Rear Drive Side Flange Diameter:  58 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  14 mm
Rear Non Drive Side Flange Diameter:  45 mm
Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  38.5 mm
Campy Cassette body - 9,10, or 11 speed compatible
Shimano/Sram Cassette Body - 8,9,10,11 speed compatible
Cassette Body Bearings:  6902 (Two) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Front Hub Weight 80 grams
Front Hub Bearings:  6900 Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Rear Hub Weight 245 grams
Rear Hub Bearings:   6802 (both drive and non drive side) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals
Note:  On Shimano-Sram cassette bodies (they are one in the same) you will need a spacer if using it with a 9 speed cassette (which is included in the spoke package), for a 10 speed cassette (which is narrower than a 9 speed) you will need the included spacer and the one that came with your cassette.  If your cassette doesn't have one you can get them at any bike shop.  They are 1 mm wide.
Skewers weight 46 grams front 50 grams rear.
Rim Strips
Black nylon.  If you are going tubeless you need to buy the Stan's rims strips.  These will not work for tubeless applications.
Tire Recommendations
With the wider rims, you can use pretty much any tire width you want - from 19 mm all the way up to over 30 mm.  I like 25 mm wide tires simply because they hold more air and are more comfortable.  23 mm tires are probably the fastest and are the most aerodynamic.  As you get bigger tires, the limiting factor is the frame.  Typically the tires will first rub on either the brakes (on the top of the tire) or with the rear tire hitting the seat tube.  Most road bikes will fit up to 25 mm tires, a few bigger ones, and many won't even fit a 25 mm tire.
The rim is 50 mm deep but the tubes rests in the rim cavity.  I suggest using tubes with removeable cores.  The wheels come with valve extenders (see below) for tubes with removeable cores.  You can get valve extenders that will work with tubes without removeable cores but there is no way to lock the valve stem.  Note that not all tubes have removeable cores.  In fact, most don't
Valve Extenders
We provide valve extenders that work with tubes with removeable cores.  If you are not familiar with them, the trick is to remove the valve stem core from the tube (it will have two flat sides - you can remove it with needle nose pliers or a very very small wrench).  Thread the valve extender onto the base of the valve - extending it - then thread in the core into the end of the extender.  I recommend using a piece of electrical tape around the core where it adjoins the rim.  If you don't the core will click against the rim driving you crazy.
Tire Pressure Recommendations
With the wider rims you can generally run at least 10% less pressure than with a narrower rim because the system holds more air.  Less pressure is better because you have a bigger tire patch and will roll over the bumps in the road instead of bounce over them (it's that sidewall flex that gives you better rolling resistance).  Most people run too much pressure in their tires because they believe they are faster (and they feel faster at first).  If the roads were perfectly flat that would be the case but they all have lots of bumps so lower pressures make sense.  Generally speaking a 160 pound rider should be around 80-90 psi in the back tire and 75-85 in the front. If you have been running higher pressure you will immediately notice how much more comfortable the ride is and how much better the bike handles around corners.
When you receive your wheels it will include a package with the extra spokes, skewers, a spacer (if a Shimano-Sram cassette is ordered) and some documents.  The documents will list the builder and on alloy wheels a serial number (which is under the rim strip near the valve hole on both wheels).  Also included is a spec sheet showing the type and length of spokes used and the spokes tensions for your wheels).  There is also some maintenance info and whatever else I want to throw in there along with a copy of your invoice.  We keep a record of your info here so you can contact us with either your invoice number (preferred), serial number (also OK), or your name and we can pull up your records.


These wheels can be set up to go tubelss with the Stan's system and with the use of a tubeless specific tire.  The tubeless specific tire is vital because they use a kevlar (aramid) bead that will not stretch. Using a regular tire risks a blowout - which on the front can be extremely dangerous.




C50CC25 Carbon Clincher Set
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Featured positive reviews:

C50CC25 Carbon Clincher Set
"Great Hands!"
One of the greatest compliments you can give a pilot is to tell them they have "Good hands." John, I'm not sure if a similar compliment exists in the cycling industry but if it does, you've earned it. Received my wheels on Friday and after 2 rides, I'm amazed at the ride quality of these wheels. I came from a set of older carbon clinchers that had an internal measurement of 15mm and were 60mm deep. The extra internal 5mm these wheels completely changed the contact patch of my 25mm Conti GP 5000's, and the reduction in wheel deepness to 50mm was immediately noticeable in crosswinds and when large vehicles would pass by. Ultimately, this all resulted in wheels that spin up quickly, maintain speed, and are noticeably faster than the Reynolds I came from. The increased contact patch increased my confidence on some normally sketchy descents at speed, but more than anything, I was amazed at the increased average mph on a very familiar course. I've done this 50 mile course more times than I can count and remain a consistent 17.5 mph average. Yesterday, that mph increased to 18.5, and the only thing that changed was these wheels. I don't run a power meter, but every time I looked down, my mph was higher and my perceived effort was either as expected or lower than expected. These are fast wheels - they get to and maintain speed better than any alloy or carbon clincher I've ever run. For the money, I don't know how a set of Zipps or Enve wheels could be any better, and these put my Reynolds to shame.

Working with John has been a breeze - good contact and response times to my questions, and he dispelled an ongoing question I've had regarding ceramic bearings in 2-3 sentences. All in all, extraordinarily pleased with these wheels. The good folks at Roswell Bikes (Roswell, GA) were similarly impressed - they removed the cassette from my old wheels and put it on these Neugent wheels. John, you might be getting some more calls from Georgia in the near future -5 guys (a combination of store employees and customers) asked for your website address, and couldn't believe what I paid for these wheels as they held and admired them. I'm very pleased - Thanks, John!